“I really wanted to re-explore the meaning of tailoring, sophistication and rigor,” says Mark Weston, creative director of dunhill. “This idea of a male uniform, its world of functionality as well as military ceremony, the roots of our British tailoring traditions are so much a part of those very things. I also wanted to see how subversive and rebellious it is for a young man to adopt a strict suit and shirt and tie now, to adopt an almost conventional uniform and make it so unconventional. It’s the power and rigor of clothes that make you feel something and behave in a certain way. This collection is a return to a certain discipline and tradition, but there is always a simultaneous sense of British subversion in what we do and in whoever might wear it.
From City Boy to Soldier, the utilitarian rigor, extravagance and power of a finely tailored uniform are fully embraced by dunhill this season. At the same time, we are witnessing a gentle subversion of these stereotypes, the codes and specificities of this masculine wardrobe being transposed and transformed to take on other meanings in the silhouettes of this season.
A synthesis of Dunhill’s signature new era styles and materials occur in the collection, often applied to a new kind of conservatism with a hint of subversion. Among them, the wrapped jacket and split hem pants adopt a more formal and rigorous tone in complete looks with high cuts and strong shoulders. Moiré appears once again, this time as a technical nylon fabric in the green Compendium coat, its multifunctional elegance becoming a counterpoint to strict tailoring. Traditional cashmere wool camel is bonded to neoprene to create Cocoon architecture for a not-so-conventional overcoat. Coated paper cotton is used for an oversized raincoat to layer over a leather suit jacket. To these established styles are added various codes of more military origin, such as livery buttons and regimental ties, a light mohair touch on a military uniform shirt and an armed forces color palette. A
a certain austerity and layered severity are embraced by all.
Ideas of tradition, rigor and continuity run through the collection, as well as a certain iconoclasm; the disturbance is in the person wearing the clothes, rather than the other way around. Here the severity becomes subversion, a very British dichotomy where the symbols of class and creativity come up against the meaning of reality.